S&W Revolvers: 1980 to the PresentAll NON-PINNED Barrels, the 50-Frames, and the New Era Revolvers
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#1
11-twenty-2016, 04:53 PM
Dantheman17
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Polishing / cleaning nickel revolvers.
I accept a model 36 nickel. It's pretty flawless only I was thinking mothers Polish and a microfiber cloth?
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#two
11-20-2016, 05:07 PM
mscook
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Sounds good to me
#3
11-20-2016, 05:15 PM
bigchuck83
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I've used both mothers and Flitz on my nickel model 586. Both worked fine
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#four
11-20-2016, 05:43 PM
TAC
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Nu Finish automotive polish is excellent, and inexpensive. Bachelor almost everywhere.
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#5
xi-twenty-2016, 06:37 PM
Pond Scum 43
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Flitz has other uses around the house.
#half-dozen
11-twenty-2016, 06:42 PM
Peak53
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Be vewy, vewy conscientious with Mother'southward on nickel. It is abrasive. Just a tad rubbed on with your finger and gently rubbed off will bring dorsum the shine, if it is lacking. If yous endeavour to polish out scratches, yous will be removing plating and exist sorry. One time should exist enough, followed by Ren Wax.
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#7
11-20-2016, 07:47 PM
maineultraclassic
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I just bought a 500 Magnum, and I want to give it a good shine job. What is the finish on information technology? Glad I plant this thread to meet what others are using.
Steve
__________________ S&Due west Shield 45 S&Due west 500 Magnum
#viii
11-xx-2016, 07:55 PM
hkcavalier
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maineultraclassic
I just bought a 500 Magnum, and I want to give information technology a practiced smoothen task. What is the end on it? Glad I constitute this thread to see what others are using.
Steve
Well it'due south non actually a "finish", it's made of stainless steel. You can be a flake more aggressive than with nickel since information technology'southward not a plating or finish, it'south the same stuff all the manner through.
#nine
xi-twenty-2016, 08:17 PM
rockquarry
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I'm missing something hither; all my nickel revolvers came from the mill highly polished and all of them still are, some subsequently more than several decades of shooting. I wipe them with an oily rag later on cleaning.
Did some of you go guns with a ho-hum finish?
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#10
11-20-2016, 08:17 PM
murphydog
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Stainless South & W revolvers have a sparse protective coating known as "passivation", which I assemble adds extra protection to the metal. Polishing will remove this.
As noted above, light polishing on nickel guns, peculiarly pristine ones. When you lot smoothen a nickel gun with any annoying, the black stuff that is on the fabric is non corrosion or dirt, information technology is the nickel itself. A nice coat of wax to preserve the unscratched shiny surface would be first.
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#11
11-xx-2016, 08:28 PM
lamarw
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Mothers' Billet Polish is less ambitious than Mothers' Magazine & Aluminum Polish.
I use the Mothers' Billet followed-up with Renaissance Micro-Chrystaline Wax Polish.
#12
11-20-2016, 08:52 PM
silentflyer
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I have had good luck with Semi-Chrome and and so a wax job....
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#xiii
11-20-2016, 09:18 PM
wood714
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maineultraclassic
I but bought a 500 Magnum, and I want to requite it a good polish job. What is the finish on it? Glad I plant this thread to encounter what others are using.
Steve
If you want a polished wait instead of the matte wait, a tin can of Mothers polish and a couple shop rags is all you need. This one took around an hour and a one-half.
Don't hate on me because it aint a Smith.
#14
11-20-2016, 11:05 PM
Dantheman17
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The 36 has a great smoothen I thouyid make her look better merely possibly I'll only use wax. What about carnuba wax?
#15
eleven-21-2016, 02:07 AM
wood714
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dantheman17
The 36 has a bang-up shine I thouyid brand her look better but maybe I'll but use wax. What nigh carnuba wax?
That'southward the only thing I'd utilise on a nickle gun.
#16
11-21-2016, 03:32 AM
Wise_A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maineultraclassic
I simply bought a 500 Magnum, and I desire to give it a good polish job. What is the end on it? Glad I constitute this thread to see what others are using.
Steve
Equally others accept said, Mother's Magazine is inexpensive and does a nice job on a stainless gun. I put a adept iv or v hours all told, plus half a jar of polish, and my 629 came out perfect--a mirror end.
I would advise a cutting-up old (but clean) white t-shirt or undershirt. One shirt provides enough scraps to do a nice job. You'd also save yourself a lot of headaches if you removed the cylinder and cylinder yoke (and the grips, evidently).
Be sure not to polish whatsoever surface that faces yous when shooting. In other words, the dorsum of the frame around the hammer slot, and the back of the cylinder face. You don't want to be blinded by glare if the sun is behind you. I too skipped the topstrap and the superlative of the barrel.
When you're done, clean thoroughly with a shop rag to remove the stale-upward polish particles.
#17
11-21-2016, 08:16 AM
OLDSTER
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polish nickel
I also apply Mothers Mag to smooth upward stainless and nickel. This nativity year (1947) M&P mill nickle was a mess when I bought it. But using Mothers Mag and some onetime cotton fiber socks, it actually cleaned up nice and has just one surface area of flaking. Nifty ( and cheap )stuff
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#18
xi-21-2016, 09:xv AM
Frank121
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I contacted South&W Customer Service via email in regard to a couple of 1970'south nickel-plated Smith & Wesson revolvers and what I could clean and wipe them down with that will non harm the terminate.
I as well asked if Ballistol is rubber to apply as the cleaner/lubricant/surface preservative or if will it damage the finish.
Their succinct response was that they would recommend using Hoppes Elite cleaner.
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#19
11-22-2016, 12:33 PM
kaaskop49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockquarry
I'm missing something here; all my nickel revolvers came from the mill highly polished and all of them still are, some afterward more than than several decades of shooting. I wipe them with an oily rag afterward cleaning.
Did some of you become guns with a dull finish?
^^^^what he said. Peculiarly the part about the oily rag. I guess I'1000 out of the loop (in many areas! ), simply where did Hoppe'south get such a bad reputation? It'southward all I use for cleaning.
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#xx
eleven-22-2016, 12:53 PM
armorer951
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Hoppe's #nine diameter solvent contains ammonia, in the form of ammonium hydroxide. If used on nickel, the excess/leftover solvents need to be wiped from the surface afterwards cleaning is completed. Harm can occur if the solvent is left on the surface too long.
This MSDS info is bachelor on the Hoppe'south web site:
Granddad'southward Hoppes nine contains ammonia. Ammoniated solvents can harm new age bluing and nickel in certain cases. Lots of word on that hither. Hoppe has the new Aristocracy formula that's safety to use. I use Ballistol, Kroil, MPro7 or Eezox. All are safe and effective. The heavy duty stuff similar Copper Killer is reserved for rifle bores.
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#22
xi-22-2016, 01:07 PM
rockquarry
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Yep, you wipe off Hoppe'due south #nine after cleaning. I was unaware anyone soaked their guns in it.
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#23
11-22-2016, 03:27 PM
tipoc
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Do not use Hoppe'due south #9 on nickel plated guns at all. Even Hoppe's discourages it, and has for decades. It's ever been bad on nickel plating.
Before the appearance of SS guns the best way to protect a gun in a damp environs (rain, salt water, high humidity, sweat from a torso, damp leather, etc) was nickel plating. Anything with ammonia in it degraded the nickel over time. This was true especially when the nickle plating was washed over a copper launder IIRC.
If your're careful in cleaning your guns you'll note that when yous use a brush on the chambers of the cylinder and the barrel there is a spray of solvent and drips that land in unexpected places. So fifty-fifty if yous try to limit the use of an ammonia based cleaner information technology can get effectually. This can be settled by simply not using any ammonia on a nickel plated gun. On the older blue guns and stainless guns Hoppe's is as good every bit it's always been.
If there is a caution on the newer blued guns folks should look that up. I haven't heard of it.
Equally others said, on nickle guns to clean the exterior I've just used a clean rag with a few drops of gun oil on the rag. When MP7 appeared I used that likewise.
On nickle avoid anything with abrasives in it.
Decades back used to encounter more "chromed" revolvers and 1911s effectually then now. Most often came from Detroit or local auto torso paint shops. These were guns literally run through the chrome bumper shops. When the onetime style and no longer used steel bumpers were hung to go down the production line to be sprayed with chrome, men would hang their gun parts along side the bumpers. This was a cheap way to protect a gun like every bit nickle plating but no where equally good or durable. Flaked off under use. Unlike from the "Difficult Chrome" finish that came along later.
tipoc
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